We all know and love box braids. This timeless, low-maintenance hairstyle is one of the best ways to protect your natural hair from fluctuating weather conditions while still being manageable enough for updos, pigtails, and the ever-reliable messy bun. It’s no surprise that this is one of the most popular types of braids for Black women.
Of course, one of the most important things to understand when it comes to achieving this flawless style is the cost. It’s the million-dollar (sometimes literally, it feels like) question we all want the answer to. And it is critical to budgeting for your hair care, especially since box braids should only be kept in for about eight to ten weeks max.
The Glam Economy Has Changed
Let me take you back a decade. My mom would drop me off at Okapi Braiding Salon, one of the few braiding spots in Pittsburgh. Teary-eyed and notoriously tender-headed, I sat in a chair as three women descended upon my scalp, braiding my hair at warp speed. Six hours and $170 later (WITH TIP!), I was done. Sometimes the price fluctuated between $150 and $200 depending on style and length, but at Okapi, I always knew exactly what to expect.
Today? It’s the Wild West out here.
Women are paying anywhere from $180 to $450 for knotless braids that they may or may not like. We live in an era where hairstylists expect their clients to arrive with their hair washed, deep conditioned, blow-dried bone straight, and emotionally regulated.
The internet is riddled with horror stories from both sides of the comb. On one hand, you have nightmare clients who would rather physically fight their way out of the shop or report their credit card stolen than pay full price. On the other, you have corner-cutting braiders who start late, end even later, and charge celebrity-tier prices for a living room setup.
So what’s a girl to do? Box braids aren’t going out of style anytime soon, but dropping $250+ every eight weeks just isn’t sustainable in this economy. Here are your options:
Option #1: Phone A Friend
Bartering and glam go hand in hand. I’ve cooked many meals for friends in exchange for a fresh set of braids. As a Howard University student, there was never a shortage of hairstylists, nail girlies, or lash techs. Day or night, you could find at least three students willing to put in the work.
If you were lucky, your stylist lived right down the hall on your dorm floor. If you weren’t, you might have to sneak your way past a grumpy security guard at 11 PM just to get to your appointment. It was all part of the fun!
The only downside to phoning a friend or an amateur braider? You never quite know what you’re going to get. When you’ve casually traded a protective style for three swipes into the dining hall—you get what you pay for.
Option #2: Learn To Braid (Enroll in YouTube University)
With enough patience, determination, and serious arm strength, plenty of people have learned to braid and style their own hair. Give a baddie a braid, she serves for a day; teach a baddie to braid, she serves for a lifetime.
I personally never had the willpower (or the shoulder stamina) to braid my own hair, but I watched in wonder as many of my friends eventually mastered the art. While I was busy making sourdough starters during the pandemic lockdown, these innovators were learning how to cornrow and part the back of their heads using two mirrors and a ring light. In the age of the internet, there are countless tutorials, tips, and tricks to take matters into your own hands and save your coins.
Option #3: Start That Loc Journey
Eventually, the endless cycle of paying a braider, sourcing the right brand of pre-stretched hair, and suffering through those dreaded post-braid-takedown nights got old. For me, there was nothing left to do but tap out of the glam economy and start my loc journey.
As much as I deeply love my locs and have discovered the incredible versatility of the style, if I’m being honest? I started them largely so I could have the absolute privilege of rolling out of bed and into my life without skipping a beat.
No $450 deposits. No dining hall bartering. Just me, my hair, and peace of mind.
